+ What is the target measurement for installation?

Most installers will position the doors in the center of openings, with a shadow line between bifold sections of about 1/8”. The shadow line between doors is also a variable along with side tolerances and varies according to how the doors fit the opening. We produce the doors targeting 5/16” gap at each jamb in mind; again it is a target.

+ What gap should be on top of the door?

The gap between underside of the top track and the top of the door should be between 1/4” - 7/16” depending on the installer preference.

+ What options do I have in adjusting the undercut of the door?

The undercut of doors (from door bottoms to the hard floor or threshold) is the primary variable in achieving height settings at the top of the door. Two different lengths of threaded studs are available to accommodate floor variations. Review all installation resources.

+ What tips are there in installing the top track?

Screws holding the top tracks to the ceiling need to find solid structure in order to keep them secure. Mounting top tracks to ceilings by screwing just through sheetrock is insufficient. For top tracks that may fall entirely within bays, you might consider wood cross bracing or plywood between bays before sheet rocking to receive top tracks. We have seen flat sheet metal secured across the bays to receive track mounting screws. Or, a 1/4 screw plate(glued and secured to teh ceiling) standing proud of the ceiling sheetrock, to which the top track will be mounted.

+ What to do if the ceiling joists are perpendicular to the top track?

If the top track and ceiling joists are perpendicular to each other, at least some mounting screws should bite the joists. The top track is predrilled every 8 inches, so you may have to drill new holes in alignment with ceiling joists. To insure that you can line up holes to structure, tracks 12inches longer may be ordered as an Add-On option. Dropped heads eliminate these concerns.

+ Who drills holes for pulls or knobs and where should they be installed?

Holes for pulls are drilled On-Site. Drilling for pulls is NOT a factory option. Holes should be marked for drilling only after doors are installed and level, one to the other. Pulls or knobs should be mounted in location specified by Landquist & Son. The buyer may source pulls or knobs from any source they desire. Note: Door pulls or knobs should never be mounted until all doors in an opening are leveled in the final adjustment-one door to the other. Pulls or knobs should be installed on 2 panel bifolds for example, 1/3 of the width of the door from the hinge side, on the glide panel. Height placement is to be determined by installer.

+ What is NOT included with the Magiglide closet door order?

All parts necessary to the installation of Magiglide doors will be included in the delivery except fasteners needed to affix the top track to the head or ceiling and the floor pivot assembly to the floor. Fasteners supplied by the contractor.

+ What type of fasterners are suggested for these areas?

Top Tracks: On wood or metal framing, sheetrock screws (wood or metal piercing) are effective provided you have solid structure behind the track and/or the sheetrock. Again, the top track should be installed level.

Floor Pivot: Hardware on wood substrates, #8 x 1 pan head screws are effective.

Masonry Substrates: Either at the top track or standard floor pivot assembly, 3/16” x 1-1/4” Hex head tapcons are effective.

Flat Floor Pate: These types of floor plates mounted directly to masonry are NOT recommended. Note: Tapcons require a power driver with the appropriate bit to drive securely into concrete.

+ Final Settings: Are they really final?

Properly installed, the tolerances established by the installer will not change unless the building settles or the door is removed. When properly installed, call-backs on Magiglide doors are virtually non-existent.